I was on a 21 days Europe Solo-Trip and already spent 11 days before arriving at Geneva. For 6 days I explored Netherland, followed by 3 days exploration in Belgium and two days in Luxembourg. Geneva was my first destination in Switzerland, and I planned to spend 7 days in Switzerland. This includes a tour inside Lavaux Wine Region.
During my research prior the trip, I found out that along the line of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) were beautiful vineyards. They are spread across the slope surrounding lake Geneva, and often known as Lavaux wine region. So, I planned to explore the area from Geneva to Montreux (which is the first two day out of 7 days in Switzerland). In this post I will share my itinerary, how to get around the area, and of course my personal experience on getting lost (literally) at the region.
Table of Contents
Why Lavaux Wine Region
Switzerland is famous for its unmatched beauty of mountainous area, layered of hills, and dramatic waterfalls on a beautiful villages. Most often, It’s Alpen, the Matterhorn, and Interlaken become the highlights when we talk about Switzerland. So, the next question is, why should we visit the Lavaux Wine Region in Switzerland?
1. One of the most dramatic vineyard terraces in the world
Lavaux wine region is an appellation that stretch from Lausanne to Montreux and a bit further. On the west of the Lausanne is the La Cote vineyards, and the eastern part after Montreux is the Chablais appellation and the beginning of Rhone Valley. The hillside of this region rise up to 350 m above the lake and famous for being steep. Between Lausanne and Montreux are vineyards that gives you one of the most dramatic vineyard terraces in Switzerland.
I have to admit, Lavaux was not on my list when I planned this trip. To me, as I am not an Oenophilia neither a connoisseur, the idea of visiting vineyard was a no-go at first. I don’t even like wine. However, I kept digging on the lonely planet guide and found so many references on wonderful spots out there around the Lake. The images of neatly grows of grape vine, with the view of emerald blue colour of the lake was a draw for me. That was how i decide to have two days to explore the Lavaux wine region.
The villages and vineyards on the dramatic slopes surrounding Lake Geneva is exceptionally wonderful. It such a perfect introductions to a bigger and grandeur Switzerland. It gives you a sneak peek with its slopes and its greeneries, a beautiful lake dotted with beautiful houses that make you start idealizing your dream living.
2. Perfect spot for wine lover and nature lover with easy trails ahead
Of course, if you’re such a wine lover, then a visit to this area is a must. The wine produced in this area cannot be purchased anywhere else. The trail along the lake is not that hard. Easy and peaceful pace ascending and descending the hill. The trail will pass some of the private and open vineyard, and I can’t tell which one is which. But the view is incredible.
If you have weeks to explore Switzerland, you can try going from the west to east. You can start from Geneva and finish the trip in St Gallen or Zurich. And, the 800-hectares of Lavaux Wine Region around the Lake Geneva would be the best option to start your trip.
Lavaux Wine Region itinerary
There are actually so may options to start with the trail. You can have the grand trail that start from Lausanne and finish at Montreux. Or, you can do the small hike in between, alternatively. To me, I started my walk from Lutry, and finished it at St. Saphorine, which can take up from half-day to full-day trip.
Some option for the hikes are numerous. You can read more here. Depends on the level of fitness and time you have in Switzerland, you can choose any type of hikes anywhere between Lausanne and Montreux (even beyond). Guaranteed, you can get a nice view of UNESCO World heritage site of Lavaux Wine Region, a taste of World class wine, and a walk in narcissus field (if you chose to).
| No | Route | Duration | Distance | Elevation Gain | Difficulties |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Chexbres - Rivaz - St-Saphorin - Chexbres | 1 hr 30 mins | 5,3 km | 220 m | Easy |
| 2 | Cully - Epesses - Rivaz | 1 hr 30 mins | 5,6 km | 317 km | Easy |
| 3 | Chexbres - Rivaz - St-Saphorin - Chexbres | 1 hr 30 mins | 5,3 km | 220 m | Easy |
| 4 | Lutry - Grandvaux - Lutry (Walk through the terraced vineyard of Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.) | 1 hr 50 mins | 6,6 km | 205 m | Medium |
| 5 | St-Saphorin - Corseaux - Vevey | 1 hr 30 mins | 5.1 km | 169 m | Medium |
| 6 | Lutry - Grandvaux - Lutry | 1 hr 50 mins | 6,6 km | 205 m | Medium |
| 7 | La Grande Traversée - Terrasses de Lavaux | 8 hr | 36 km | 1899 m | Hard |
| 8 | Chexbres - Vinorama | 40 mins | 2.24 km | 79 m | Easy |
| 9 | Blonay - Les Pléiades | 2 hr 15 mins | 4.6 km | 1479 m | Medium |
| 10 | The Narcissus Trail, Les Pléiades | 1 hr 30 mins | 4,87 km | 258 m | Medium |
| 11 | Caux – Rochers de Naye | 2 hr | 9,5 km | 1024 m | Hard |
How to Get Around Switzerland (and Lavaux Wine Region)
Although the sub-title alone worth one-proper-post length, I would like to put it here briefly as this was how I moved around the wine region, and of course in Switzerland. Switzerland public transportation is reliable and have so many options from Bus, Tram, Train, funiculars, and many others.
During my 7 days in Switzerland, I used mainly bus and train to move in between cities and funicular to reach mountainous area. I bought the 8-days Swiss Travel Pass that costs CHF 376 (USD 420/IDR 5,900,000) at that time (May 2017). Now, it costs CHF 418 for the 8-days travel pass. Yes, it is very expensive. However, if your itinerary includes moving to cities or even regions, this is the most efficient option to get around in Switzerland. The travel pass gives you unlimited travel on train, bus, and even boat, as well as unlimited travel on panorama trains. It also includes free admission to more than 500 museums and 50% discounts on selected mountain excursions.
If you rent a car, this option may give you flexibility, however, it may costs more when you travel alone. It cost about 100-150 CHF per day and it includes basic collision damage. My suggestion, if you travel with a group of 3-4 person, you may want to consider renting a car. However, if you travel alone and on a budget, using public transportation is probably the best option.
Lavaux Wine Region Trail – Day 1: Lutry – Chexbrex- St Saphorin – Montreux
The itinerary
There is no formal route or specific mark when it comes to Lavaux Wine Region Trail. However, there are general road and direction sign and the hike passage or roads are in good condition. It’s different when you hike in Nepal or any trail in Asia for that matter. So, the only way to enjoy this hike is just relax, enjoy the view of many spread vineyard with the background of beautiful Lake Geneva.
With the so many options to choose from, I chose to combine several trail for day-1. I picked the “Lutry – Grandvaux – Lutry” route and “Chexbres – Rivaz – St-Saphorin – Chexbres” and make it continuous. My route was therefore Lutry – Grandvaux – Chexbres – St Saphorin. And then, I took a train ride from St Saphorin to Montreux and stay overnight there.
The Hike
That day, I woke up at Brussels and took a red-eye flight to Geneva. At Geneva train station, I send my luggage to Interlaken as I will be arriving at Interlaken the day after tomorrow and did not want to carry the luggage during the hike. I don’t remember anymore which service that I used and the price, however we can check the service at the train station. It really helps when you have bulk of luggage and wanting to hike.
I took the train from Geneva to Lutry to start the hike. The start of the hike was quite okay, with the lake Geneva and hazy view of the mountains in the background. I started it at Lutry Train station, and follow the direction Google Map had directed towards Grandvaux. It was probably not the best idea, since it directed me through main street and I had no idea how would I come across the vineyard. I thought since the vineyard spread along the slope of Lake Geneva, it would be easy to find them. However, that was not the case.
I did walk uphill for about 2 hours with no hint of vineyard through villages. There were sights of greeneries on the horizon, some were visible from the pedestrian walk, and some were hampered by the houses. The idea of trespassing private property and find a secret path was not my list either. I had no other options but following the route and hope that it would lead me to one of those vineyard.
The Vineyard
And I did. I finally found vineyards and a nice trail path along the area. There were vineyards with undeterred view towards Lake Geneva. The downward slope of the terrace full of vines met with the Blue colour of the lake and with the trace of mountain in the background was a sight to hold. I could not tell if my presence need permission or not. In fact, i just walked along the narrow road zig-zag-ing the vineyard I could not tell the name. I nodded and smiled to some of the worker and they smiled back. That was how I know I was welcomed and the exploration continued.
The constant view of the Vineyard terrace eventually became usual, until I got chased by a dog. Since I did not know which vineyards are private and which is not, I walked and I walked. Until at one point, a dog chased me and barking at non-stop. I don’t normally afraid to dog. However, if a dog bark at me and chase me, I will naturally run. The hike continued after dog-chasing experience and I finally arrived at St. Saphorine, if I remember it correctly.
I knew I did not have much time and it was getting late. I started the hike at about lunch time and had to arrive to Montreux before dark. After arriving at St. Saphorine, I took a bus to Montreux and conclude the day. To me, it was one of many memorable hiking experience I have ever had. Although you can get used the similar view vineyard after vineyards, terrace after terraces, it is still a beautiful view of Montreux Riviera.
Lavaux Wine Region Trail – Day 2: Montreux- Rochers de Naye – Veytaux – Ligerz
Rochers de Naye
After spending the night at Montreux and had a deep sleep after hours of hiking, I finally woke up to a nicer weather ready to start Day-2. That morning, i planned to go up to Rochers de Naye, followed by a visit to Veytaux, especially the beautiful Chateau de Chillon, and took a train to Ligerz before staying the night at Interlaken. Although Montreux Riviera especially famous for its Vineyard, my day-2 itinerary focuses on Montreux and municipalities nearby that offer unique view. In other words, it was the non-vineyard part of the trip.
Rochers de Naye is part of Swiss Alps and its height is 2042 meters. It is reachable via cog railway from Montreux Station via Glion and Caux to its Summit. The trip is 50 minutes ride. I visited it on May 3rd and welcomed by a washout white of the snow by the time I arrived at the peak. Though the weather was bright, there was nowhere to go with the snow that thick. Moreover, I was alone when I reached the peak 🤭. I went down immediately after taking some pictures.
Instead of stopping at Montreux Gare, I made a stop at Glion on my way back. From glion, I descended the slope while enjoying the view of Montreux. The slope on the way down filled with beautiful houses.
Chateau de Chillon (Chillon Castle)
After arriving at Montreux Gare, I continued my journey to Veytaux in order to go to Chateau de Chillon. To be honest, I had been waiting to visit this Chateau by the lake. The beauty of this castle reminds you of those castle from fairytale movie.
Chateau de Chillon was built since Bronze Age. It is built on top of oval limestone rock in Lake Geneva, make it accessible via the lake from all sides. This castle has over 300 displays (source: Chillon.ch). On daily basis, the castle open from 10 am to 5 pm during January to March, and to 6 pm from April to December. The entrance fee costs 13,5 CHF for adult and 7 CHF for children (6-15 years old).
Ligerz
Ligerz is not within Lavaux Wine Region. It’s a municipality in the canton of Bern, near Interlaken. It has beautiful Church built in a vineyard slope of Jura Mountain in Ligers. And, I thought it would be great addition to the itinerary before I stayed the night at Interlaken.
The specific place I wanted to visit in Ligerz, was the Eglise de Ligers (Kirche Ligerz). So, after I arrived at Ligers de Gare, I immediately took a walk to the Church. It was a 15 minutes’ walk up to the beautiful church. The church was built on 1482.
Two days in the Montreux Riviera and Lavaux Wine Region had been such an amazing experience and my journey continued Northeast to Interlaken.
